Hi everyone! I created this page to be a basic skincare 101 for those starting their skincare journeys. All this content reflects personal opinion only and does not serve as a professional/medical recommendation.
No affiliate links and no sponsored content here!
As a dermie told me once “use SPF every day without fail, moisturize with something basic, and use something with retinoids at night” <3
Cleanse
First step of any good skincare routine is a gentle cleanser to wash away the day! Only use cleansers every night and wash with water-only in the mornings. I also recommend double cleansing at night. This means you melt all your makeup and sunscreen with an oil-based cleanser or micellar water, wash it off, and then follow-it up with a water-based cleanser.
Everyday go-to (me): $38 Soy pH-balanced face wash by Fresh
Budget: $14 Hydrating face wash by Cerave
Hydrate
My thoughts on moisturizers is use what feels good to your face and meets your level of hydration needs and finish goals. If you want a plump, dewy finish, look for hyaluronic acid (super hygroscopic) in the ingredient list. Otherwise, things like ceramides and squalane are also good to have on the list. If I had to designate dollars to each of these categories, I think I would spend the least on moisturizers. I haven’t found magical differences between CeraVe ($1/oz) vs LaMer ($190/oz) tbh. A general rule-of-thumb is heavier creams at night, SPF containing lighter moisturizers for the day (see below “Prevent”). Don’t spend your whole budget here. Look for something simple and fragrance-free.
Lightweight budget: $14 Daily Moisturizing Lotion by CeraVe
Heavyweight budget: $15 Moisturizing Cream by CeraVe
Elias’s current (super duty): $19 (1.7oz) Skin Renewing Night Cream by CeraVe
My current (k-beauty): $32 Aestura Atobarrier
Tried and true (medium): $33 Ultra Facial Moisturizing Cream by Kiehl’s
Prevent
Retinoids rule this segment. Maybe you’ve heard of Retinols, which is usually referring to a “weaker” type of Retinoid commonly found over-the-counter. All retinoids are a form of a vitamin A derivative. It’s a one-stop-shop for high-yield skincare that has the most evidence behind it. It helps with skin turnover rates, anti-aging (fine lines), skin texture, building collagen, and acne. It even has the ability to reverse sun-damaged skin cells who want to turn into cancer cells.
**Warning: Retinoids are not to be used during pregnancy due to teratogenic effects.
Start slow and gradually increase use from once a week to daily. Start with once a week, try it for 1-2 months, then add a day per week every month until you find your sweet spot. My skin gets too dry and irritated if I use it every day. My skin is happiest with 3-4 times per week. Make sure you use sunscreen, retinoids will make you more sensitive to the sun!
Most evidence-based (Elias & me): $20 co-pay Tretinoin 0.001% or 0.025% (prescription only)
Over-the-counter alternative: $12 Adapalene Gel 0.1% by Differin (Adapalene is also FDA approved for acne treatment)
Gentler version of the prescription-strength retinoid: $12 Granactive Retinoid 2% by The Ordinary
Protect
Sun damage accounts for 90% of visible skin changes! The best anti-aging intervention is to use sunscreen. A product with at least 30 SPF should be worn every day, even when it’s cloudy, even when you’re spending most of your day inside. Night shift/OR only days may be the only exception but still, use it every day and it’ll be a good habit you’re building!
The easiest way to incorporate SPF for me has been to pick a daily moisturizer that already has it incorporated. While physical sunscreen would be preferred over chemical, a lot of physical sunscreens have a “white-cast” and thus will usually have some kind of skin-color tint to the product. For ease of use, I stick with chemical sunscreens almost all of the time, but I have both!
On a budget: $15 AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion by CeraVe SPF 30
Chemical Sunscreen (Elias): $38 Unseen Sunscreen by Supergoop SPF 40
There’s a Trader Joe’s dupe for $9!!
Physical Sunscreen with tint (me): $38 Mineral Mattescreen by Supergoop SPF 40
K-beauty Sunscreens I love: Beauty of Joseon, Roundlabs
For beach days and re-application (m3): $69 Sunforgettable Brush-on by Colorescience SPF 50
Treat
The rest is add-on treatments to meet your specific skin needs and goals! These include skin texture, uneven tone, pigmentation, dry patches, oiliness, acne, aging, and fine lines!
Vitamin-C (and other antioxidants): Formulations vary and this is in theory is great for preventing visible aging and hyperpigmentation. When you use it under sunscreen during the day, it works as a sunscreen booster too! However, as an antioxidant, you have to keep it out of sunlight and use it up quickly once it’s open. Here’s a link if you want to learn about all the nuances of different types of Vitamin C you’ll see on the market.
AHA/BHA: These all help with increasing cell turnover and are sometimes referred to as “chemical exfoliants”. The at-home products are usually diluted forms when compared to the products available to skin clinics. Examples include: AHA, BHA, Lactic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid. AHAs will help with fine lines, give you “that glow”, and even out skin texture. BHAs are great for oil control and making your pores appear smaller. My favorite AHA is from Drunk Elephant (Babyfacial) and my favorite BHA is from Paula’s Choice.
Neurotoxins: All the botulinum derivatives "-tox” belong here! When injected into the muscle, it immobilizes and atrophies for 3-5 months, preventing you from making the specific facial expression responsible for the deep lines and wrinkles. It also gives your skin a break from the constant folding. My go-to age to recommend prevention is mid 20’s, and to start with low low doses and work on frown lines before smile lines. I am currently going botox free!
A great brand to try things out is The Ordinary. Click on “formulations by category” to see all the al la carte options for add-ons at a great price point!